Animal And Pets
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Grooming Your Shih-Tzu
"It's HARD to be so beautiful...."
I am not going to attempt to put together a grooming page on how to SHAVE your shih-tzu, as much as it is requested.
After giving it careful thought,
I believe this should be left to the pros.
I know you THINK you will save a bundle, but you won't.
First you need a proper grooming table.
You need proper shears (nothing under $100.), proper scissors and proper blades and a LOT of practice.
You will need a good vet on standby to suture your dog
when you fillet it or cut it with the clippers, particularly around the eyes and under arms.
The razor burns you will cause until you do your first
25 cuts will be painfully excruciating to the poor dog.
I think you should bush your dog every day,
should wash your dog once a week,
and go to a groomer every 3 months.
Nails should be cut as needed.
Recent finding state dogs may live as long as 20 years
with proper diet and having it's teeth cleaned regularly.
To do daily care:
Tools you will need;
* Pin brush-around $15-$25 get a good one with No balls on the tips. Balls on the tips break the hair.
* Metal comb, fine and medium
* Rat tail comb~for making the part down the back and making the top knot
* Slicker brush curved~for brushing undercoat
* Finishing spray or spray conditioner
Lay doggie down on her side, get her used to this at a young age. Lightly spray coat and start brushing with long smooth strokes, start on underside and work up her side to her back in layers. Each layer is gently brushed and little knots are worked out with your fingers. Don't rip through knots or pup will never trust you to brush her like this. After you have gone up her entire side, turn her over and brush the other side same way. Now turn her on her back and brush her tummy, careful attention to armpits where snarls form. I clip mine here to avoid problems later. Next make her stand, and go through her entire coat with the metal combs making sure you did not miss any spots, use medium comb first, then fine metal comb. Next make top knot: Part hair with plastic rat tail comb from eye corner back across ears and then across head to other side. I tie this up with a soft tiny band for everyday. Don't make it too tight or it will make the eyes "bug" out and bother the dog. Ba!
nd it about 1 inch from scalp and then take a few hairs in the middle and holding these, push the top knot down to the scalp. This makes the top knot poof in the front. Next comb face "furnishings" these are the mustache and the beard~use the plastic comb for this, never brush this area or you may injure the eyes. Lastly, take rat tail comb and part the hair down the middle of the back to the tail. You can also use a knitting needle for this. Finish the dog with a light spray again all over avoid eyes, and gently brush the coat down with the pin brush. Poofy feets can be fluffed up with he slicker brush. Sometimes I also use the slicker brush on the undercoat when I am brushing the layers but don't brush too hard or you will scratch your baby. A small reward ends the grooming session. Either a kiss and praise and a small tidbit for being good.
Shampoo your shih tzu once a week if you can. Clean dogs do not matt as fast. Brush her/ groom everyday!!!!!! If she is in long coat you may have to do this 2 times a day. Puppy coats start to "blow" around 6-8 months old, and they get their big doggie fur. Then you have to brush, brush, brush, or you will have a matted dog. The blowing of the puppy coat lasts about 6 weeks...then it gets better. Most people get their shih tzu clipped around this time 7-8 months old because of this.
Good shampoos for shih tzu: My favorite is Pet Silk moisturizing shampoo and conditioner...recently I tried this following shampoo and it was nice for a change. But I still like Pet Silk the best. You can buy it at http://Cherrybrook.com just type in Pet Silk in the search and it will come up.
~Shampoo Tip for Minimizing Mats~
from the Momma of Sugar Bear and Huny B Bear
Does your furbaby tend to get mats easily? This is a great shampoo.
I use it on Sugar Bear and also on Huny who each have different texture coats and it works
equally as well on both dogs. This is a people shampoo and it is a bit expensive, but you don't
have to buy a conditioner so it evens out. The shampoo is called Physique~Shampoo + Conditioner.
It comes in a silver cylinder bottle, you can buy it at stores like KMart or big discount stores.
Wash your shih tzu with this shampoo and do not apply conditioner as it is already in the shampoo.
Gently work in in and let the silky foam work into the hair. Rinse well. I use this shampoo/conditioner
all the time and it tends to build up in the hair. It is a good idea to use a vinegar/water rinse (1/2 cup white vinegar to a quart of water) every third bath and work this into the hair to clean out the build up on the hair shaft. Work this rinse through the hair, rinse well, then shampoo. You will notice that the blow dry is easier and the upkeep on the hair is much easier with less matting and snarls.
Compliments of Lynne The BOW Lady
SHOW BOWS AVAILABLE DIRECTLY FOR SALE By special order on her site
http://www.doggiebowties.com
I am not going to attempt to put together a grooming page on how to SHAVE your shih-tzu, as much as it is requested.
After giving it careful thought,
I believe this should be left to the pros.
I know you THINK you will save a bundle, but you won't.
First you need a proper grooming table.
You need proper shears (nothing under $100.), proper scissors and proper blades and a LOT of practice.
You will need a good vet on standby to suture your dog
when you fillet it or cut it with the clippers, particularly around the eyes and under arms.
The razor burns you will cause until you do your first
25 cuts will be painfully excruciating to the poor dog.
I think you should bush your dog every day,
should wash your dog once a week,
and go to a groomer every 3 months.
Nails should be cut as needed.
Recent finding state dogs may live as long as 20 years
with proper diet and having it's teeth cleaned regularly.
To do daily care:
Tools you will need;
* Pin brush-around $15-$25 get a good one with No balls on the tips. Balls on the tips break the hair.
* Metal comb, fine and medium
* Rat tail comb~for making the part down the back and making the top knot
* Slicker brush curved~for brushing undercoat
* Finishing spray or spray conditioner
Lay doggie down on her side, get her used to this at a young age. Lightly spray coat and start brushing with long smooth strokes, start on underside and work up her side to her back in layers. Each layer is gently brushed and little knots are worked out with your fingers. Don't rip through knots or pup will never trust you to brush her like this. After you have gone up her entire side, turn her over and brush the other side same way. Now turn her on her back and brush her tummy, careful attention to armpits where snarls form. I clip mine here to avoid problems later. Next make her stand, and go through her entire coat with the metal combs making sure you did not miss any spots, use medium comb first, then fine metal comb. Next make top knot: Part hair with plastic rat tail comb from eye corner back across ears and then across head to other side. I tie this up with a soft tiny band for everyday. Don't make it too tight or it will make the eyes "bug" out and bother the dog. Ba!
nd it about 1 inch from scalp and then take a few hairs in the middle and holding these, push the top knot down to the scalp. This makes the top knot poof in the front. Next comb face "furnishings" these are the mustache and the beard~use the plastic comb for this, never brush this area or you may injure the eyes. Lastly, take rat tail comb and part the hair down the middle of the back to the tail. You can also use a knitting needle for this. Finish the dog with a light spray again all over avoid eyes, and gently brush the coat down with the pin brush. Poofy feets can be fluffed up with he slicker brush. Sometimes I also use the slicker brush on the undercoat when I am brushing the layers but don't brush too hard or you will scratch your baby. A small reward ends the grooming session. Either a kiss and praise and a small tidbit for being good.
Shampoo your shih tzu once a week if you can. Clean dogs do not matt as fast. Brush her/ groom everyday!!!!!! If she is in long coat you may have to do this 2 times a day. Puppy coats start to "blow" around 6-8 months old, and they get their big doggie fur. Then you have to brush, brush, brush, or you will have a matted dog. The blowing of the puppy coat lasts about 6 weeks...then it gets better. Most people get their shih tzu clipped around this time 7-8 months old because of this.
Good shampoos for shih tzu: My favorite is Pet Silk moisturizing shampoo and conditioner...recently I tried this following shampoo and it was nice for a change. But I still like Pet Silk the best. You can buy it at http://Cherrybrook.com just type in Pet Silk in the search and it will come up.
~Shampoo Tip for Minimizing Mats~
from the Momma of Sugar Bear and Huny B Bear
Does your furbaby tend to get mats easily? This is a great shampoo.
I use it on Sugar Bear and also on Huny who each have different texture coats and it works
equally as well on both dogs. This is a people shampoo and it is a bit expensive, but you don't
have to buy a conditioner so it evens out. The shampoo is called Physique~Shampoo + Conditioner.
It comes in a silver cylinder bottle, you can buy it at stores like KMart or big discount stores.
Wash your shih tzu with this shampoo and do not apply conditioner as it is already in the shampoo.
Gently work in in and let the silky foam work into the hair. Rinse well. I use this shampoo/conditioner
all the time and it tends to build up in the hair. It is a good idea to use a vinegar/water rinse (1/2 cup white vinegar to a quart of water) every third bath and work this into the hair to clean out the build up on the hair shaft. Work this rinse through the hair, rinse well, then shampoo. You will notice that the blow dry is easier and the upkeep on the hair is much easier with less matting and snarls.
Compliments of Lynne The BOW Lady
SHOW BOWS AVAILABLE DIRECTLY FOR SALE By special order on her site
http://www.doggiebowties.com
Grooming Your Shih-Tzu
"It's HARD to be so beautiful...."
I am not going to attempt to put together a grooming page on how to SHAVE your shih-tzu, as much as it is requested.
After giving it careful thought,
I believe this should be left to the pros.
I know you THINK you will save a bundle, but you won't.
First you need a proper grooming table.
You need proper shears (nothing under $100.), proper scissors and proper blades and a LOT of practice.
You will need a good vet on standby to suture your dog
when you fillet it or cut it with the clippers, particularly around the eyes and under arms.
The razor burns you will cause until you do your first
25 cuts will be painfully excruciating to the poor dog.
I think you should bush your dog every day,
should wash your dog once a week,
and go to a groomer every 3 months.
Nails should be cut as needed.
Recent finding state dogs may live as long as 20 years
with proper diet and having it's teeth cleaned regularly.
To do daily care:
Tools you will need;
* Pin brush-around $15-$25 get a good one with No balls on the tips. Balls on the tips break the hair.
* Metal comb, fine and medium
* Rat tail comb~for making the part down the back and making the top knot
* Slicker brush curved~for brushing undercoat
* Finishing spray or spray conditioner
Lay doggie down on her side, get her used to this at a young age. Lightly spray coat and start brushing with long smooth strokes, start on underside and work up her side to her back in layers. Each layer is gently brushed and little knots are worked out with your fingers. Don't rip through knots or pup will never trust you to brush her like this. After you have gone up her entire side, turn her over and brush the other side same way. Now turn her on her back and brush her tummy, careful attention to armpits where snarls form. I clip mine here to avoid problems later. Next make her stand, and go through her entire coat with the metal combs making sure you did not miss any spots, use medium comb first, then fine metal comb. Next make top knot: Part hair with plastic rat tail comb from eye corner back across ears and then across head to other side. I tie this up with a soft tiny band for everyday. Don't make it too tight or it will make the eyes "bug" out and bother the dog. Ba!
nd it about 1 inch from scalp and then take a few hairs in the middle and holding these, push the top knot down to the scalp. This makes the top knot poof in the front. Next comb face "furnishings" these are the mustache and the beard~use the plastic comb for this, never brush this area or you may injure the eyes. Lastly, take rat tail comb and part the hair down the middle of the back to the tail. You can also use a knitting needle for this. Finish the dog with a light spray again all over avoid eyes, and gently brush the coat down with the pin brush. Poofy feets can be fluffed up with he slicker brush. Sometimes I also use the slicker brush on the undercoat when I am brushing the layers but don't brush too hard or you will scratch your baby. A small reward ends the grooming session. Either a kiss and praise and a small tidbit for being good.
Shampoo your shih tzu once a week if you can. Clean dogs do not matt as fast. Brush her/ groom everyday!!!!!! If she is in long coat you may have to do this 2 times a day. Puppy coats start to "blow" around 6-8 months old, and they get their big doggie fur. Then you have to brush, brush, brush, or you will have a matted dog. The blowing of the puppy coat lasts about 6 weeks...then it gets better. Most people get their shih tzu clipped around this time 7-8 months old because of this.
Good shampoos for shih tzu: My favorite is Pet Silk moisturizing shampoo and conditioner...recently I tried this following shampoo and it was nice for a change. But I still like Pet Silk the best. You can buy it at http://Cherrybrook.com just type in Pet Silk in the search and it will come up.
~Shampoo Tip for Minimizing Mats~
from the Momma of Sugar Bear and Huny B Bear
Does your furbaby tend to get mats easily? This is a great shampoo.
I use it on Sugar Bear and also on Huny who each have different texture coats and it works
equally as well on both dogs. This is a people shampoo and it is a bit expensive, but you don't
have to buy a conditioner so it evens out. The shampoo is called Physique~Shampoo + Conditioner.
It comes in a silver cylinder bottle, you can buy it at stores like KMart or big discount stores.
Wash your shih tzu with this shampoo and do not apply conditioner as it is already in the shampoo.
Gently work in in and let the silky foam work into the hair. Rinse well. I use this shampoo/conditioner
all the time and it tends to build up in the hair. It is a good idea to use a vinegar/water rinse (1/2 cup white vinegar to a quart of water) every third bath and work this into the hair to clean out the build up on the hair shaft. Work this rinse through the hair, rinse well, then shampoo. You will notice that the blow dry is easier and the upkeep on the hair is much easier with less matting and snarls.
Compliments of Lynne The BOW Lady
SHOW BOWS AVAILABLE DIRECTLY FOR SALE By special order on her site
http://www.doggiebowties.com
I am not going to attempt to put together a grooming page on how to SHAVE your shih-tzu, as much as it is requested.
After giving it careful thought,
I believe this should be left to the pros.
I know you THINK you will save a bundle, but you won't.
First you need a proper grooming table.
You need proper shears (nothing under $100.), proper scissors and proper blades and a LOT of practice.
You will need a good vet on standby to suture your dog
when you fillet it or cut it with the clippers, particularly around the eyes and under arms.
The razor burns you will cause until you do your first
25 cuts will be painfully excruciating to the poor dog.
I think you should bush your dog every day,
should wash your dog once a week,
and go to a groomer every 3 months.
Nails should be cut as needed.
Recent finding state dogs may live as long as 20 years
with proper diet and having it's teeth cleaned regularly.
To do daily care:
Tools you will need;
* Pin brush-around $15-$25 get a good one with No balls on the tips. Balls on the tips break the hair.
* Metal comb, fine and medium
* Rat tail comb~for making the part down the back and making the top knot
* Slicker brush curved~for brushing undercoat
* Finishing spray or spray conditioner
Lay doggie down on her side, get her used to this at a young age. Lightly spray coat and start brushing with long smooth strokes, start on underside and work up her side to her back in layers. Each layer is gently brushed and little knots are worked out with your fingers. Don't rip through knots or pup will never trust you to brush her like this. After you have gone up her entire side, turn her over and brush the other side same way. Now turn her on her back and brush her tummy, careful attention to armpits where snarls form. I clip mine here to avoid problems later. Next make her stand, and go through her entire coat with the metal combs making sure you did not miss any spots, use medium comb first, then fine metal comb. Next make top knot: Part hair with plastic rat tail comb from eye corner back across ears and then across head to other side. I tie this up with a soft tiny band for everyday. Don't make it too tight or it will make the eyes "bug" out and bother the dog. Ba!
nd it about 1 inch from scalp and then take a few hairs in the middle and holding these, push the top knot down to the scalp. This makes the top knot poof in the front. Next comb face "furnishings" these are the mustache and the beard~use the plastic comb for this, never brush this area or you may injure the eyes. Lastly, take rat tail comb and part the hair down the middle of the back to the tail. You can also use a knitting needle for this. Finish the dog with a light spray again all over avoid eyes, and gently brush the coat down with the pin brush. Poofy feets can be fluffed up with he slicker brush. Sometimes I also use the slicker brush on the undercoat when I am brushing the layers but don't brush too hard or you will scratch your baby. A small reward ends the grooming session. Either a kiss and praise and a small tidbit for being good.
Shampoo your shih tzu once a week if you can. Clean dogs do not matt as fast. Brush her/ groom everyday!!!!!! If she is in long coat you may have to do this 2 times a day. Puppy coats start to "blow" around 6-8 months old, and they get their big doggie fur. Then you have to brush, brush, brush, or you will have a matted dog. The blowing of the puppy coat lasts about 6 weeks...then it gets better. Most people get their shih tzu clipped around this time 7-8 months old because of this.
Good shampoos for shih tzu: My favorite is Pet Silk moisturizing shampoo and conditioner...recently I tried this following shampoo and it was nice for a change. But I still like Pet Silk the best. You can buy it at http://Cherrybrook.com just type in Pet Silk in the search and it will come up.
~Shampoo Tip for Minimizing Mats~
from the Momma of Sugar Bear and Huny B Bear
Does your furbaby tend to get mats easily? This is a great shampoo.
I use it on Sugar Bear and also on Huny who each have different texture coats and it works
equally as well on both dogs. This is a people shampoo and it is a bit expensive, but you don't
have to buy a conditioner so it evens out. The shampoo is called Physique~Shampoo + Conditioner.
It comes in a silver cylinder bottle, you can buy it at stores like KMart or big discount stores.
Wash your shih tzu with this shampoo and do not apply conditioner as it is already in the shampoo.
Gently work in in and let the silky foam work into the hair. Rinse well. I use this shampoo/conditioner
all the time and it tends to build up in the hair. It is a good idea to use a vinegar/water rinse (1/2 cup white vinegar to a quart of water) every third bath and work this into the hair to clean out the build up on the hair shaft. Work this rinse through the hair, rinse well, then shampoo. You will notice that the blow dry is easier and the upkeep on the hair is much easier with less matting and snarls.
Compliments of Lynne The BOW Lady
SHOW BOWS AVAILABLE DIRECTLY FOR SALE By special order on her site
http://www.doggiebowties.com
How Long Do Dogs Live
>From the time we bring them home as wriggling bundles of joy, we all want our puppies to live forever. As they bond with us and grow into full fledged family members, we tend not to think about the end of their life or how many precious years we have with our canine friends.
However, when picking out our new puppy it is rare that we give adequate consideration to the average lifespan of the dog. There are distinct factors that play into whether our puppy will be with us until our children graduate from high school or if they give us a few good years.
Most experts agree that small breeds tend to outlive large breeds. The general rule of thumb is the larger the dog the shorter the life span. Large medium to large breed dog tend to live about ten years, although there are exceptions to every rule. We have a feisty-willed large breed mutt who is determined to see his fifteenth birthday.
Smaller breeds tend to live longer, anywhere from twelve to fifteen years. Occasionally you will run into the nearly twenty year old Scottie, but most don’t make it past their sixteenth year.
Again, every rule has its exceptions. The Irish Wolfhound isn’t expected to make it more than six or seven good years although there really isn’t a conclusive reason as to why this is so. Of course these figures are taking into consideration overall good health and quality care. Genetics play a vital role in longetivity, but those we can’t control. There are a few factors in our favorite little guy’s life we can do to help him get to his ripe old age. Some of them can even combat predisposition to genetic diseases.
One of the fastest ways to shorten a dog’s life is to keep him outside all the time. Dogs that live outside tend to be missing a few key ingredients in their overall care that impact their life span.
Even with a shelter available, dogs do wear down and age quickly when they are dealing with constant element exposure. While some can adjust, most dog bodies find the extremes the environment can dish out at them to be exhausting and threatening.
Dogs who permanently reside outside tend to receive less over all care. Since people spend the majority of their time at home inside, often small health problems go unnoticed until it becomes an overwhelming problem. Even the responsible pet owner can forget to feed or water the dog who is permanently engaged in outdoor activities when the lifestyle inside the home becomes stressed or busy.
Outdoor dogs also lack the essential strong emotional connection with their owners that indoor dogs benefit from. Having their human friends to please and play with goes a long way in their overall happiness and health. Often a sick dog who has no emotional connection will stop eating and caring for themselves long before those who have families who love and care for them. If you want your little guy to live a longer, fuller life, bring him inside and let him be part of the family lifestyle.
Whether you are bringing home a purebred puppy or a distinguished gentleman of questionable descent, their life span can be about the same. Barring any health problems, each should live as long as the other and it really just comes down to personal preference.
>From birth to about two years old your puppy is learning and growing. Every day your little guy is reaching new miles stones and his body is very busy. High quality puppy food packed with nutrition can help set him on the foundation for a healthy life. These foods are a little more expensive, but they can be well worth the cost when considering the effects of malnutrition.
If your little guy comes from a family or breed history of hip and back problems such as hip dysplasia, excessive exercise in the first two years can put added stress on the joints in question and actually exacerbate the potential for later problems. Exercise is good, over doing isn’t.
Regular veterinary check ups and of course vaccinations during the first two years can help to catch problems early on, which will increase his overall health. This is the time when your puppy really needs you to watch out for him, whether his body is having health problems or he is ingesting things that can cause long term problems, staying on top of him now reduces health effects in his later years.
>From his second year through his fifth we can consider this his basic years of good health and maintenance. Watch for signs of growing obesity and make sure he is receiving ample exercise and fun play time. If he is a healthy dog then these years should be stress free.
Keep at least annual appointments with the vet for check ups and updated shots. His food should be a high quality protein based variety, but if he’s showing signs of to much happy eating either cut back on his portions or switch to a low calorie variety.
Once he gets into his fifth to eighth year we can consider him a middle age to aging dog. These are the years when small but manageable health problems are likely to show up. If he’s a really good eater but hasn’t shown signs of obesity before, these are the years when his activity will slow down some and he may develop a weight problem now. Again, a good low calorie food and a few perhaps coaxed walks should be enough to help him keep his youthful figure.
Other problems such as cataracts, arthritis, or even heart murmurs are most likely to show up during these years. They are not catastrophic events and can typically be handled with a trip to the vet and either simple procedures or medication. Ignoring problems now however, are likely to grow into unmanageable problems quickly. Stay on top of his check ups and vaccinations to ward off any potential disasters looming about. Most dogs that are generally healthy should make it through these years just fine.
Depending on the size, breed, and overall health of your not so little guy, once he reaches eight years old he may be starting to push toward borrowed time. Smaller breeds won’t get there until about ten, but even medium dogs are now starting to wear down.
Just because he’s getting old doesn’t mean you have to start thinking about euthanasia. There is a possibility that he will have health and happiness for a few more years to come. However now is the time when health problems can erupt quickly and strike hard. Eight years old and beyond is when you are most likely going to face making tough decisions about your faithful canine’s quality of life. The care you gave him as a puppy is now doing its part to take care of him as he ages.
Some older dogs need to be encouraged to eat. If your once upon a time eating machine is suddenly losing weight, switch to a higher protein, higher fat content dog food to help him maintain his energy.
Our care for our dogs all the way through their lives can make a huge difference in how long they live a full and happy life. When bringing a new puppy home remember that how you treat his body right now will carry a direct effect to his life span down the road. Many dogs outlive their life span and are happy and energetic the whole way through. A little love and responsibility can go a long, long way. Any dog that has touched your life will certainly live forever.
However, when picking out our new puppy it is rare that we give adequate consideration to the average lifespan of the dog. There are distinct factors that play into whether our puppy will be with us until our children graduate from high school or if they give us a few good years.
Most experts agree that small breeds tend to outlive large breeds. The general rule of thumb is the larger the dog the shorter the life span. Large medium to large breed dog tend to live about ten years, although there are exceptions to every rule. We have a feisty-willed large breed mutt who is determined to see his fifteenth birthday.
Smaller breeds tend to live longer, anywhere from twelve to fifteen years. Occasionally you will run into the nearly twenty year old Scottie, but most don’t make it past their sixteenth year.
Again, every rule has its exceptions. The Irish Wolfhound isn’t expected to make it more than six or seven good years although there really isn’t a conclusive reason as to why this is so. Of course these figures are taking into consideration overall good health and quality care. Genetics play a vital role in longetivity, but those we can’t control. There are a few factors in our favorite little guy’s life we can do to help him get to his ripe old age. Some of them can even combat predisposition to genetic diseases.
One of the fastest ways to shorten a dog’s life is to keep him outside all the time. Dogs that live outside tend to be missing a few key ingredients in their overall care that impact their life span.
Even with a shelter available, dogs do wear down and age quickly when they are dealing with constant element exposure. While some can adjust, most dog bodies find the extremes the environment can dish out at them to be exhausting and threatening.
Dogs who permanently reside outside tend to receive less over all care. Since people spend the majority of their time at home inside, often small health problems go unnoticed until it becomes an overwhelming problem. Even the responsible pet owner can forget to feed or water the dog who is permanently engaged in outdoor activities when the lifestyle inside the home becomes stressed or busy.
Outdoor dogs also lack the essential strong emotional connection with their owners that indoor dogs benefit from. Having their human friends to please and play with goes a long way in their overall happiness and health. Often a sick dog who has no emotional connection will stop eating and caring for themselves long before those who have families who love and care for them. If you want your little guy to live a longer, fuller life, bring him inside and let him be part of the family lifestyle.
Whether you are bringing home a purebred puppy or a distinguished gentleman of questionable descent, their life span can be about the same. Barring any health problems, each should live as long as the other and it really just comes down to personal preference.
>From birth to about two years old your puppy is learning and growing. Every day your little guy is reaching new miles stones and his body is very busy. High quality puppy food packed with nutrition can help set him on the foundation for a healthy life. These foods are a little more expensive, but they can be well worth the cost when considering the effects of malnutrition.
If your little guy comes from a family or breed history of hip and back problems such as hip dysplasia, excessive exercise in the first two years can put added stress on the joints in question and actually exacerbate the potential for later problems. Exercise is good, over doing isn’t.
Regular veterinary check ups and of course vaccinations during the first two years can help to catch problems early on, which will increase his overall health. This is the time when your puppy really needs you to watch out for him, whether his body is having health problems or he is ingesting things that can cause long term problems, staying on top of him now reduces health effects in his later years.
>From his second year through his fifth we can consider this his basic years of good health and maintenance. Watch for signs of growing obesity and make sure he is receiving ample exercise and fun play time. If he is a healthy dog then these years should be stress free.
Keep at least annual appointments with the vet for check ups and updated shots. His food should be a high quality protein based variety, but if he’s showing signs of to much happy eating either cut back on his portions or switch to a low calorie variety.
Once he gets into his fifth to eighth year we can consider him a middle age to aging dog. These are the years when small but manageable health problems are likely to show up. If he’s a really good eater but hasn’t shown signs of obesity before, these are the years when his activity will slow down some and he may develop a weight problem now. Again, a good low calorie food and a few perhaps coaxed walks should be enough to help him keep his youthful figure.
Other problems such as cataracts, arthritis, or even heart murmurs are most likely to show up during these years. They are not catastrophic events and can typically be handled with a trip to the vet and either simple procedures or medication. Ignoring problems now however, are likely to grow into unmanageable problems quickly. Stay on top of his check ups and vaccinations to ward off any potential disasters looming about. Most dogs that are generally healthy should make it through these years just fine.
Depending on the size, breed, and overall health of your not so little guy, once he reaches eight years old he may be starting to push toward borrowed time. Smaller breeds won’t get there until about ten, but even medium dogs are now starting to wear down.
Just because he’s getting old doesn’t mean you have to start thinking about euthanasia. There is a possibility that he will have health and happiness for a few more years to come. However now is the time when health problems can erupt quickly and strike hard. Eight years old and beyond is when you are most likely going to face making tough decisions about your faithful canine’s quality of life. The care you gave him as a puppy is now doing its part to take care of him as he ages.
Some older dogs need to be encouraged to eat. If your once upon a time eating machine is suddenly losing weight, switch to a higher protein, higher fat content dog food to help him maintain his energy.
Our care for our dogs all the way through their lives can make a huge difference in how long they live a full and happy life. When bringing a new puppy home remember that how you treat his body right now will carry a direct effect to his life span down the road. Many dogs outlive their life span and are happy and energetic the whole way through. A little love and responsibility can go a long, long way. Any dog that has touched your life will certainly live forever.
Understanding Dog Behavior
Dogs are considered the most genuinely happy creatures on earth. Their entire day is filled with you whether you are there or not. They are waiting for you, sleeping on your bed, watching for you out the window, wondering where you are while they are patiently waiting for you in their crate.
Once you come home it’s all about you. Your attention, your love, your food, your commands, and of course, your time. For an animal that revolves his whole life around you, it can be confusing why he does some of the things he does. If he loves you so much, why is he destroying your shoes? If you are the light in his life, why is he ignoring you when you come home?
Dogs have a very unique way of expressing themselves. Most people believe that dogs have and show genuine emotion such as love and fear and even anger. We understand that when they sit at the door and bark they are telling us they need to go outside. We understand that when we have a leash in our hand and they get a little goofy that they are excited about the upcoming walk. Understanding their more subtle or destructive cues takes a little insight into your dog’s world.
Returning Home Behavior
Some dogs get so excited that you are home after a weekend away they completely get beside themselves with joy. They follow you around and may even be uncharacteristically clingy as you wander about the house. Others get so excited when you first walk in the door, and then leave you in complete peace for several hours. People usually say that he is angry with you for leaving in the first place.
Most experts say their behavior is more about security than anything. You are your dog’s entire world and when for some reason you disappear for a long period of time, and there is a sudden change in his routine, his security is thrown a bit. He is very happy to see you but he also needs a little reassurance that everything is getting back to normal. Some dogs do this by following you around the house until they are sure, and others do this from a more observatory stance. Either way your canine family member is just looking for reassurance and his typical routine to return.
The Canine Garbage Disposal
He knows better and he knows that you know he knows better. However, every chance he gets you see him scampering off with something that you just absolutely don’t want him to chew. He eats your best shoes while you’re in the shower, the corner of the bedspread while you’re getting dressed, and the phone cord while you were talking on it. And you haven’t even made it to breakfast yet. As much as you love him you are contemplating the moral issues of drop kicking him right out the door. You’ve tried everything that you can think of and yet he is still eating everything in sight. He is beyond the age where teething causes chewing but yet he still can’t seem to find his own toys to consume.
There are two key factors in a garbage disposal dog. The first and easiest to solve is a health problem relating to his teeth and gums. If his mouth is bothering him, he is going to chew on everything he can. Start with a vet visit to rule out any periodontal issues.
The more likely culprit of his unflattering behavior is stress and anxiety. Yes, your happy go lucky guy can suffer from stress. Has there been a change in the household such as a new baby, dramatically increased arguing or is someone who is supposed to be there suddenly gone?
For starter, confine him when you can’t watch him, although preferably with you. A puppy gate here can go a long way in simple things like keeping an eye on him while you are showering and watching his every move while you are getting dressed. Often the hurried morning is a higher anxiety period for your dog.
Then begin to address the problem. Make sure there’s an appropriate toy available to him at all times and make a big deal about it when he eats the right things. A sharp reprimand and a quick and immediate discipline is in order when you catch him at the wrong chew toys. You don’t want to stress him more by smacking him, although a rolled up newspaper banged on a hard surface is a quick attention getter. Never strike him with it. He will make it his mission to eat it if you do in an effort to eliminate an already stressful period.
Try to identify the stressor and relax him around the problem. If you can get him comfortable enough around the new baby to lie down even when the baby is crying, you have made strides. If there is tension in the house try to tone down the arguing, or take it to an alternative room. If your dog can be comfortably confined to an outdoor yard, that is the best option, but don’t get so wrapped up in your arguing that you leave him out there for extensive periods of time. Whatever the stressor is that is causing the chewing, try to get him comfortable and relaxed around it. This may take some time, but relieving his anxiety will also reduce the tension in your life as well.
Aggression
You know him as your sweet and loveable friend. Your friends and neighbors know him as the terror on your doorstep who wants to eat them. Aggression is not a nice quality in your dog. Aggression comes from the desire to protect, and anything perceived as a threat is going to be treated like one. For some dogs this means anyone and anything that doesn’t belong. He is only trying to defend his home and his human family, but aggression is a serious behavioral problem that needs to be nipped in the bud.
Check your own behavior. How are you reacting to him when he is growling and carrying on at the neighbor as she walks by your house? Make sure the words “good boy” are the last thing your dog hears. “Be a good boy,” or “That’s not a good boy,” are not deterrents. Neither is “Shh.”
Mild mannered people tend to have more aggressive dogs because their tones are not consistent with command. If your dog doesn’t believe you enough to listen to you, he certainly isn’t going to believe you can take care of yourself. I can’t tell you how many times our pups have been accosted on the street with an owner telling their dog that it’s ok. It’s not okay. The words you are looking for are firm and sharp and sound like “Sit” and “No.” One word firm commands are much more effective than reasoning. Aggression is a serious offense and it must be treated as one. We have one dog who got a little out of control. When sitting wasn’t getting him under control on his nightly walk we actually went to making him lie down. Right there on the street or sidewalk we commanded our German Shepard to lie down to get his attention and then added a “Quiet” command to get our point across. His aggression quieted down in a week.
Some dogs do better if they can at least see what’s going on even if they can’t be a part of the process. Aggressive dogs are really protective dogs. The delivery man might not want your growling, snarling beloved pet to join you on the porch, but he might do better if he has a place he can be directed to sit and watch provided he stays quiet. Constantly sequestering him does nothing to solve the problem.
The Overbearing Overgrown Puppy
He is happy to see you. You are his toy and his best friend and he will pummel you over in an attempt to play with you. He has run over the children and covered the cat with his doggie saliva. You love him, but wow does his energy get annoying sometimes. It’s hard to talk to someone one the phone when he’s jumping on you and wrapping his big paws around you and forget leaving the house looking presentable.
He is the puppy who never grew up. His body got big, but he seems intellectually stuck at four months old. Most of the time this behavior is a matter of dominance. When a dog views you as his alpha leader, he gives you respect. When you are his peer, you are his play mate. Alpha leaders are by nature a food related dominance. Of course other factors play into it as well, but to a dog food is leadership. If you are not already the dog’s food source, consider taking on that responsibility.
Establish yourself as a leader. This isn’t all that hard to do and you don’t even have to stop playing with him in order to do it. Start by giving him random commands, especially around feeding time. With his food in your hand tell him to sit. With the food in the bowl and the bowl on the floor tell him to wait, and then make sure he follows through. When he has looked to you for permission, allow him to commence eating.
Slowly add random commands throughout the day and rebuke rough playing immediately. If he wants to play, he has to sit and wait for things rather than tackle you. You can just as easily give him commands with playtime as you can any other time. A few commands before you throw the ball is usually enough to get the right message across as you are establishing dominance.
Interpreting Your Dog
Understanding your dog’s behavior isn’t quite as mystifying as it seems. He really is doing his best to tell you. Watching his communication with other people and animals in the household can really open your eyes to how he expresses himself.
A dog wags his tail to express happiness, yawns when he is content, and growls when he is threatened. With over one hundred facial expressions, he is constantly telling you something. The more you get to know your dog the more you will learn what he is telling you.
Owning a dog is a wonderfully joyous experience. They bring so much into our world which is why so many people have them. They look to us to tend to their needs. We owe it to them to give them at least our very best shot at keeping them safe, healthy, and happy.
Once you come home it’s all about you. Your attention, your love, your food, your commands, and of course, your time. For an animal that revolves his whole life around you, it can be confusing why he does some of the things he does. If he loves you so much, why is he destroying your shoes? If you are the light in his life, why is he ignoring you when you come home?
Dogs have a very unique way of expressing themselves. Most people believe that dogs have and show genuine emotion such as love and fear and even anger. We understand that when they sit at the door and bark they are telling us they need to go outside. We understand that when we have a leash in our hand and they get a little goofy that they are excited about the upcoming walk. Understanding their more subtle or destructive cues takes a little insight into your dog’s world.
Returning Home Behavior
Some dogs get so excited that you are home after a weekend away they completely get beside themselves with joy. They follow you around and may even be uncharacteristically clingy as you wander about the house. Others get so excited when you first walk in the door, and then leave you in complete peace for several hours. People usually say that he is angry with you for leaving in the first place.
Most experts say their behavior is more about security than anything. You are your dog’s entire world and when for some reason you disappear for a long period of time, and there is a sudden change in his routine, his security is thrown a bit. He is very happy to see you but he also needs a little reassurance that everything is getting back to normal. Some dogs do this by following you around the house until they are sure, and others do this from a more observatory stance. Either way your canine family member is just looking for reassurance and his typical routine to return.
The Canine Garbage Disposal
He knows better and he knows that you know he knows better. However, every chance he gets you see him scampering off with something that you just absolutely don’t want him to chew. He eats your best shoes while you’re in the shower, the corner of the bedspread while you’re getting dressed, and the phone cord while you were talking on it. And you haven’t even made it to breakfast yet. As much as you love him you are contemplating the moral issues of drop kicking him right out the door. You’ve tried everything that you can think of and yet he is still eating everything in sight. He is beyond the age where teething causes chewing but yet he still can’t seem to find his own toys to consume.
There are two key factors in a garbage disposal dog. The first and easiest to solve is a health problem relating to his teeth and gums. If his mouth is bothering him, he is going to chew on everything he can. Start with a vet visit to rule out any periodontal issues.
The more likely culprit of his unflattering behavior is stress and anxiety. Yes, your happy go lucky guy can suffer from stress. Has there been a change in the household such as a new baby, dramatically increased arguing or is someone who is supposed to be there suddenly gone?
For starter, confine him when you can’t watch him, although preferably with you. A puppy gate here can go a long way in simple things like keeping an eye on him while you are showering and watching his every move while you are getting dressed. Often the hurried morning is a higher anxiety period for your dog.
Then begin to address the problem. Make sure there’s an appropriate toy available to him at all times and make a big deal about it when he eats the right things. A sharp reprimand and a quick and immediate discipline is in order when you catch him at the wrong chew toys. You don’t want to stress him more by smacking him, although a rolled up newspaper banged on a hard surface is a quick attention getter. Never strike him with it. He will make it his mission to eat it if you do in an effort to eliminate an already stressful period.
Try to identify the stressor and relax him around the problem. If you can get him comfortable enough around the new baby to lie down even when the baby is crying, you have made strides. If there is tension in the house try to tone down the arguing, or take it to an alternative room. If your dog can be comfortably confined to an outdoor yard, that is the best option, but don’t get so wrapped up in your arguing that you leave him out there for extensive periods of time. Whatever the stressor is that is causing the chewing, try to get him comfortable and relaxed around it. This may take some time, but relieving his anxiety will also reduce the tension in your life as well.
Aggression
You know him as your sweet and loveable friend. Your friends and neighbors know him as the terror on your doorstep who wants to eat them. Aggression is not a nice quality in your dog. Aggression comes from the desire to protect, and anything perceived as a threat is going to be treated like one. For some dogs this means anyone and anything that doesn’t belong. He is only trying to defend his home and his human family, but aggression is a serious behavioral problem that needs to be nipped in the bud.
Check your own behavior. How are you reacting to him when he is growling and carrying on at the neighbor as she walks by your house? Make sure the words “good boy” are the last thing your dog hears. “Be a good boy,” or “That’s not a good boy,” are not deterrents. Neither is “Shh.”
Mild mannered people tend to have more aggressive dogs because their tones are not consistent with command. If your dog doesn’t believe you enough to listen to you, he certainly isn’t going to believe you can take care of yourself. I can’t tell you how many times our pups have been accosted on the street with an owner telling their dog that it’s ok. It’s not okay. The words you are looking for are firm and sharp and sound like “Sit” and “No.” One word firm commands are much more effective than reasoning. Aggression is a serious offense and it must be treated as one. We have one dog who got a little out of control. When sitting wasn’t getting him under control on his nightly walk we actually went to making him lie down. Right there on the street or sidewalk we commanded our German Shepard to lie down to get his attention and then added a “Quiet” command to get our point across. His aggression quieted down in a week.
Some dogs do better if they can at least see what’s going on even if they can’t be a part of the process. Aggressive dogs are really protective dogs. The delivery man might not want your growling, snarling beloved pet to join you on the porch, but he might do better if he has a place he can be directed to sit and watch provided he stays quiet. Constantly sequestering him does nothing to solve the problem.
The Overbearing Overgrown Puppy
He is happy to see you. You are his toy and his best friend and he will pummel you over in an attempt to play with you. He has run over the children and covered the cat with his doggie saliva. You love him, but wow does his energy get annoying sometimes. It’s hard to talk to someone one the phone when he’s jumping on you and wrapping his big paws around you and forget leaving the house looking presentable.
He is the puppy who never grew up. His body got big, but he seems intellectually stuck at four months old. Most of the time this behavior is a matter of dominance. When a dog views you as his alpha leader, he gives you respect. When you are his peer, you are his play mate. Alpha leaders are by nature a food related dominance. Of course other factors play into it as well, but to a dog food is leadership. If you are not already the dog’s food source, consider taking on that responsibility.
Establish yourself as a leader. This isn’t all that hard to do and you don’t even have to stop playing with him in order to do it. Start by giving him random commands, especially around feeding time. With his food in your hand tell him to sit. With the food in the bowl and the bowl on the floor tell him to wait, and then make sure he follows through. When he has looked to you for permission, allow him to commence eating.
Slowly add random commands throughout the day and rebuke rough playing immediately. If he wants to play, he has to sit and wait for things rather than tackle you. You can just as easily give him commands with playtime as you can any other time. A few commands before you throw the ball is usually enough to get the right message across as you are establishing dominance.
Interpreting Your Dog
Understanding your dog’s behavior isn’t quite as mystifying as it seems. He really is doing his best to tell you. Watching his communication with other people and animals in the household can really open your eyes to how he expresses himself.
A dog wags his tail to express happiness, yawns when he is content, and growls when he is threatened. With over one hundred facial expressions, he is constantly telling you something. The more you get to know your dog the more you will learn what he is telling you.
Owning a dog is a wonderfully joyous experience. They bring so much into our world which is why so many people have them. They look to us to tend to their needs. We owe it to them to give them at least our very best shot at keeping them safe, healthy, and happy.
Should Your Dog Eat Table Scraps?
It’s a familiar sight to every pet owner who has sat down to a meal with their dog in the room: Your furry friend scoots as close to the table as he can get. His big, pitiful eyes stare longingly - first at you, then at your plate. He licks his chops over and over again, hoping to get just one bite of whatever you are eating. As hard as it is not to give in to those sad, soulful eyes, there are many reasons NOT to feed your dog table scraps.
The most obvious reason is because many of the foods that humans eat are just not good for dogs. The best diet for a dog is a consistent diet. Talk to your vet about how much food to give your dog, and then feed the same amount at the same time each day. There are ways to make his meals more interesting, such as adding gravy that is made for dogs, without sacrificing his good health.
Dogs that eat a lot of table scraps tend to be overweight. If you are eating a steak and want to give your dog a treat, what part of the steak does he usually get? The fat. Eating pure fat isn’t good for your dog’s weight. Dogs that are overweight have less energy and are at greater risk for developing health problems such as cardiovascular diseases.
Some foods are a direct threat to your dog’s health. Chocolate is the best example of this. Chocolate contains a substance that is toxic to dogs. While humans love this sweet treat, it can cause great harm, even death, to your dog.
Digestive disorders are another common problem among dogs that eat a lot of table scraps. Again, the healthiest diet for dogs is a consistent diet. You’re not doing your dog any favors if you feed him scraps that cause him to vomit or have diarrhea. Even a food that isn’t always toxic to a dog can upset his digestive tract enough to cause these unpleasant symptoms.
Table scraps do not provide the nutrition that dogs need. Tossing your dog a scrap of chicken now and then is different than feeding your dog a diet that consists mainly of table scraps. Dogs need different things nutritionally than humans do, and the best way for dogs to get what they need is to eat a food that has been formulated for dogs. Even if you offer him nutritious dog food along with an abundance of table scraps, he is less likely to eat his own food if he is filling up on yours.
In addition to the health problems, there are behavioral problems that can develop as a result of feeding your dog table scraps. You need to ask yourself the following questions.
Do you really want him to beg? You need to ask yourself this question every time you are tempted to give in to your dog. If you start feeding your dogs scraps from the table, he is going to sit there like Old Faithful at every single meal. Do not reward begging at the table unless you WANT him to beg at the table. Rewarding that behavior even one time may make it difficult to train your dog to stay away from the table. Even if it doesn’t bother you terribly, you may want to entertain guests in the future who won’t appreciate Fido sniffing their plates as they try to eat.
Help your pet be a good dog by NOT rewarding bad behavior such as begging.
Do you want your dog to be a picky eater? Since the healthiest food for you dog is dog food, it’s a good idea to make that dog food as appealing as possible. Setting his dry kibble next to a juicy steak probably isn’t the most effective way to accomplish that. By feeding your dog a lot of table scraps, you are helping him develop a taste for your food. In some cases, this will cause your dog to become finicky about what he eats, and his dry food will not seem as appealing as it once did.
Do you want a dog who steals? A dog who is allowed to eat human food on a regular basis will begin to assume it is his right to eat the pot of spaghetti you left on the counter. He may also be more apt to rummage through the garbage to get a hold of some of the scraps you neglected to give him. This may cause serious problems as many items found in the trash are very harmful to your pet.
There are many good reasons not to give table scraps to your dog on a regular basis, but there are ways to treat your dog that are not harmful and that will not encourage bad behavior.
If you want to give your pet an occasional treat of leftover meat, just follow a few rules.
* Be sure that small bones are removed. Never give your dog chicken bones. Some dogs have a bad reaction (severe vomiting and diarrhea) to other types of bones, so it’s best to remove the meat from the bones completely.
* Do not feed directly from the table. After the meal, when the dog has stopped begging, take the leftovers to his normal eating place and put them in his bowl. Do not let him see you walk directly from the table to his bowl.
* Do not do anything that causes your dog to see a relationship between his begging and you giving him table food. Do not feed him table scraps every day. His main diet should be of a food that contains all the nutrition he needs. In other words: dog food. Only feed hand selected table scraps as an occasional treat.
As much as you might want to give in to his begging, you must keep his best interest in mind. Dogs don’t know what is good for them. It’s your job to help keep them healthy and to help them behave, not give in to their every whim.
The most obvious reason is because many of the foods that humans eat are just not good for dogs. The best diet for a dog is a consistent diet. Talk to your vet about how much food to give your dog, and then feed the same amount at the same time each day. There are ways to make his meals more interesting, such as adding gravy that is made for dogs, without sacrificing his good health.
Dogs that eat a lot of table scraps tend to be overweight. If you are eating a steak and want to give your dog a treat, what part of the steak does he usually get? The fat. Eating pure fat isn’t good for your dog’s weight. Dogs that are overweight have less energy and are at greater risk for developing health problems such as cardiovascular diseases.
Some foods are a direct threat to your dog’s health. Chocolate is the best example of this. Chocolate contains a substance that is toxic to dogs. While humans love this sweet treat, it can cause great harm, even death, to your dog.
Digestive disorders are another common problem among dogs that eat a lot of table scraps. Again, the healthiest diet for dogs is a consistent diet. You’re not doing your dog any favors if you feed him scraps that cause him to vomit or have diarrhea. Even a food that isn’t always toxic to a dog can upset his digestive tract enough to cause these unpleasant symptoms.
Table scraps do not provide the nutrition that dogs need. Tossing your dog a scrap of chicken now and then is different than feeding your dog a diet that consists mainly of table scraps. Dogs need different things nutritionally than humans do, and the best way for dogs to get what they need is to eat a food that has been formulated for dogs. Even if you offer him nutritious dog food along with an abundance of table scraps, he is less likely to eat his own food if he is filling up on yours.
In addition to the health problems, there are behavioral problems that can develop as a result of feeding your dog table scraps. You need to ask yourself the following questions.
Do you really want him to beg? You need to ask yourself this question every time you are tempted to give in to your dog. If you start feeding your dogs scraps from the table, he is going to sit there like Old Faithful at every single meal. Do not reward begging at the table unless you WANT him to beg at the table. Rewarding that behavior even one time may make it difficult to train your dog to stay away from the table. Even if it doesn’t bother you terribly, you may want to entertain guests in the future who won’t appreciate Fido sniffing their plates as they try to eat.
Help your pet be a good dog by NOT rewarding bad behavior such as begging.
Do you want your dog to be a picky eater? Since the healthiest food for you dog is dog food, it’s a good idea to make that dog food as appealing as possible. Setting his dry kibble next to a juicy steak probably isn’t the most effective way to accomplish that. By feeding your dog a lot of table scraps, you are helping him develop a taste for your food. In some cases, this will cause your dog to become finicky about what he eats, and his dry food will not seem as appealing as it once did.
Do you want a dog who steals? A dog who is allowed to eat human food on a regular basis will begin to assume it is his right to eat the pot of spaghetti you left on the counter. He may also be more apt to rummage through the garbage to get a hold of some of the scraps you neglected to give him. This may cause serious problems as many items found in the trash are very harmful to your pet.
There are many good reasons not to give table scraps to your dog on a regular basis, but there are ways to treat your dog that are not harmful and that will not encourage bad behavior.
If you want to give your pet an occasional treat of leftover meat, just follow a few rules.
* Be sure that small bones are removed. Never give your dog chicken bones. Some dogs have a bad reaction (severe vomiting and diarrhea) to other types of bones, so it’s best to remove the meat from the bones completely.
* Do not feed directly from the table. After the meal, when the dog has stopped begging, take the leftovers to his normal eating place and put them in his bowl. Do not let him see you walk directly from the table to his bowl.
* Do not do anything that causes your dog to see a relationship between his begging and you giving him table food. Do not feed him table scraps every day. His main diet should be of a food that contains all the nutrition he needs. In other words: dog food. Only feed hand selected table scraps as an occasional treat.
As much as you might want to give in to his begging, you must keep his best interest in mind. Dogs don’t know what is good for them. It’s your job to help keep them healthy and to help them behave, not give in to their every whim.
What The Shih Tzu Owner Should Know About Grooming Part Ii: Getting To Know Grooming Equipment
If you don’t have good equipment there is no way you will have a well groomed Shih Tzu. As with all jobs, proper tools are essential to doing a job well.
Clippers
One of the most important pieces of equipment is the clipper. For a Shih Tzu owner grooming only one Shih Tzu, one of the best is Oster with snap-on blades. The blades can be changed easily. Various blades needed are No. 10, No. 7 and No. 4. No. 10 will give you a complete shave down. No. 7 blade will give you not so close of a cut as the No. 10. No 4 blade will give you the stylish puppy cut that so many Shih Tzu pet owners like for their pet Shih Tzu.
Combs
You will need a fine-toothed comb and a medium-toothed comb. You will also need a very tiny comb to comb the hair on the face. Combs with metal handles are more durable.
Brushes
The brush is very important. While the professional groomer who grooms all the breeds will need a variety of brushes, the Shih Tzu owner will need the proper brushes for a Shih Tzu. A soft wire slicker brush is the best for fluff-drying. It can be used to remove tangles from the Shih Tzu’s coat, but it must be used very gently. The hard wire slicker is used to remove mats. A pin brush is used for tidying the long hair of a Shih Tzu. It cannot be used for “hard” brushing. If your Shih Tzu’s hair is fine, you can use a natural-bristle brush made of boar bristles. A vegetable brush or toothbrush can be used on all the places that are hard to get at, especially on the face, around and between the eyes of the Shih Tzu.
Use a spray conditioner when brushing your Shih Tzu’s hair. The conditioner should have a lanolin base and should not contain alcohol. Alcohol can discolor and dry out the hair of the Shih Tzu. If you do not have the correct type on hand, use plain water in a spray bottle. When you use coat conditioner or water when brushing your Shih Tzu’s hair, you will prevent static electricity and causing the hair to break.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
Clippers
One of the most important pieces of equipment is the clipper. For a Shih Tzu owner grooming only one Shih Tzu, one of the best is Oster with snap-on blades. The blades can be changed easily. Various blades needed are No. 10, No. 7 and No. 4. No. 10 will give you a complete shave down. No. 7 blade will give you not so close of a cut as the No. 10. No 4 blade will give you the stylish puppy cut that so many Shih Tzu pet owners like for their pet Shih Tzu.
Combs
You will need a fine-toothed comb and a medium-toothed comb. You will also need a very tiny comb to comb the hair on the face. Combs with metal handles are more durable.
Brushes
The brush is very important. While the professional groomer who grooms all the breeds will need a variety of brushes, the Shih Tzu owner will need the proper brushes for a Shih Tzu. A soft wire slicker brush is the best for fluff-drying. It can be used to remove tangles from the Shih Tzu’s coat, but it must be used very gently. The hard wire slicker is used to remove mats. A pin brush is used for tidying the long hair of a Shih Tzu. It cannot be used for “hard” brushing. If your Shih Tzu’s hair is fine, you can use a natural-bristle brush made of boar bristles. A vegetable brush or toothbrush can be used on all the places that are hard to get at, especially on the face, around and between the eyes of the Shih Tzu.
Use a spray conditioner when brushing your Shih Tzu’s hair. The conditioner should have a lanolin base and should not contain alcohol. Alcohol can discolor and dry out the hair of the Shih Tzu. If you do not have the correct type on hand, use plain water in a spray bottle. When you use coat conditioner or water when brushing your Shih Tzu’s hair, you will prevent static electricity and causing the hair to break.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
The Shih Tzu Groom Shop Record Keeping
The Appointment Book
A Shih Tzu beauty parlor should operate much the same as a human beauty parlor. The most essential record is the appointment book. The Shih Tzu dog grooming business relies on a regular schedule. The appointment book will prove to be one of the most important records you have for maintaining an efficient business. The type of appointment book you choose is entirely a personal decision. However, you might start out with one called Week at a Glance.
In the Week at a Glance appointment book, each week is laid out in day-by-day columns. Each day is broken down hour by hour. Notate your Shih Tzu groom appointments immediately in the appointment book. Do not rely on your memory. You do not want the faintest possibility of forgetting an appointment.
Your Shih Tzu groom customers should be informed and encouraged to call in advance for appointments. This may take a little time to develop. You might post a sign just over your reception counter or desk informing customers of this policy. Appointment only Shih Tzu grooming enables you to know what to expect each day or any given day. You can plan your time accordingly. Appointment only Shih Tzu grooming will also help you to not overbook on one day and under book the next day. You want your Shih Tzu grooming shop to look busy, but not “hectic” and overwhelming.
Perfecting an ideal Shih Tzu grooming schedule can present a number of complicating factors. With time and experience you will succeed. A wise Shih Tzu groomer will anticipate at least one cancellation on any given day, or a customer may not show up. Over time you should develop a continuous rhythm and system that works best for you.
A well established Shih Tzu beauty parlor should be able to successfully operate with a limited number of Shih Tzu handled each day. Try to establish regular customers that come every four to six weeks.
For the Shih Tzu beauty parlor just starting out, however, you might want to have a definite appointment system but with some flexibility. The worst system of all is not keeping any appointment record and just taking anyone at anytime. If you sell your business, well-kept records and a good customer base list would make a difference in the selling price.
Master List
Another important record is your Shih Tzu grooming master card. It is wise to keep a card for every Shih Tzu. The front of the card should record special instructions or comments (style of hair-do or clip customer prefers), two telephone numbers if available. In case of emergency or you just need more information you should be able to reach the Shih Tzu customer either at home or an alternate number. The back of the card should contain a chronological listing of the dates the dog came in and the prices charged.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
A Shih Tzu beauty parlor should operate much the same as a human beauty parlor. The most essential record is the appointment book. The Shih Tzu dog grooming business relies on a regular schedule. The appointment book will prove to be one of the most important records you have for maintaining an efficient business. The type of appointment book you choose is entirely a personal decision. However, you might start out with one called Week at a Glance.
In the Week at a Glance appointment book, each week is laid out in day-by-day columns. Each day is broken down hour by hour. Notate your Shih Tzu groom appointments immediately in the appointment book. Do not rely on your memory. You do not want the faintest possibility of forgetting an appointment.
Your Shih Tzu groom customers should be informed and encouraged to call in advance for appointments. This may take a little time to develop. You might post a sign just over your reception counter or desk informing customers of this policy. Appointment only Shih Tzu grooming enables you to know what to expect each day or any given day. You can plan your time accordingly. Appointment only Shih Tzu grooming will also help you to not overbook on one day and under book the next day. You want your Shih Tzu grooming shop to look busy, but not “hectic” and overwhelming.
Perfecting an ideal Shih Tzu grooming schedule can present a number of complicating factors. With time and experience you will succeed. A wise Shih Tzu groomer will anticipate at least one cancellation on any given day, or a customer may not show up. Over time you should develop a continuous rhythm and system that works best for you.
A well established Shih Tzu beauty parlor should be able to successfully operate with a limited number of Shih Tzu handled each day. Try to establish regular customers that come every four to six weeks.
For the Shih Tzu beauty parlor just starting out, however, you might want to have a definite appointment system but with some flexibility. The worst system of all is not keeping any appointment record and just taking anyone at anytime. If you sell your business, well-kept records and a good customer base list would make a difference in the selling price.
Master List
Another important record is your Shih Tzu grooming master card. It is wise to keep a card for every Shih Tzu. The front of the card should record special instructions or comments (style of hair-do or clip customer prefers), two telephone numbers if available. In case of emergency or you just need more information you should be able to reach the Shih Tzu customer either at home or an alternate number. The back of the card should contain a chronological listing of the dates the dog came in and the prices charged.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.